Ombre, Combo, Powder... Permanent Makeup Brow Techniques Explained

Fluffy, full brows are in style. Permanent Makeup can achieve any kind of brow shape and shade but all the styles consist of the following basic techniques.

Angles

Designing the brow shape begins with knowing your angles.

Starting Point: Draw a straight line from the outside of nose up to forehead. 

Highest Point: From the outside of nose to the center of eyes. This is where the arch should go. 

Outer Edge: This is a line from the outside of nose to the corner of eye. 

Any hair beyond the starting point and outer edge can be removed. Mapping brows prior to a permanent makeup procedure is a MUST. For a precise drawing, use tools such as a brow designer or mapping string. 

See mapping string in action!

Strokes

Microblading is essentially making tiny strokes on the skin to create the look of hair. The strokes go in the direction of natural hair growth. Small strokes tend to look more natural. You can create a feathery, dramatic, or crisp effect by changing the needle used.

Once you’ve drawn the strokes, blend them with a mascara like wand. This allows the pigment to coat any hairs that may have been missed. 

Styles

Choosing a brow style for your client depends on their current brows, skin type, bone structure and desired look. Looking at before-and-afters is a great way to get a sense of each style fit for your client. 

Ombre Brows have a powdery or misty look that’s achieved with tiny dots of pigment. The technique is similar to airbrushing and results in a defined, yet soft look. Ombre works on all skin types and is great for clients who wear filled in brows. 

Microblading mimics the look of real hair. It can look super natural or create full, fluffy brows. Microblading is great for clients who have thin brows, but it doesn’t apply well on oily skin types.  

Combo Brows are exactly that -- a hybrid of microblading and ombre. Clients get the natural look of microblading as well as the definition of ombre brows. The cost is a little higher, but combo brows work for nearly everyone. 

What is your favorite brow style? Let us know in the comments!